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FeedDual Appeal
Side Bar aims to balance good times and good eats.
Photos by Steve Legato Published March 29, 2010 at 12:09 PM
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THE SCENE: Mid-February’s onslaught of the frozen white stuff made for a string of quiet nights at downtown West Chester’s youth-oriented, contemporary-leaning Side Bar & Restaurant. Not that the place isn’t made for crowds. Its exposed brick and stone, earthy hues on the walls, worn wood floors and trio of spacious bars (the third is on the second floor) make this a warm and inviting place for patrons of all ages.
There’s ample dining space on both floors, but it’s certainly quieter upstairs (try the table by the big bay window). A bulk of the seating is two- and four-tops dressed in black linens.
Entertainment includes eight flat-screen TVs, and live music or DJ after 10 p.m. on Friday and Saturday nights. Thursdays, it’s DJ Tommy C until 2 a.m. So if you’re looking for a party, you could do worse.
Sundays are more family-oriented at Side Bar, with a brunch menu that’s full of kid appeal. What’s not to love about s’mores pancakes made with chocolate chips, graham crackers and Fluff? But the menu is still grown-up enough for moms and dads to feel like they’re stepping out a bit, too.
Sidewalk seating is available during the spring and summer, and it’s a sure bet you’ll be waiting awhile for those coveted tables. For a more subdued experience downstairs, the room to the left of the stairway is where you want to be.
THE EXPERIENCE: On both of my visits, service was as friendly as it comes, with a sincere need-to-please vibe coming from both the bar and waitstaff.
Still, one would assume that when the place is jumping, the experience would be a whole lot different. And if you’re a college undergrad, graduate student or young professional, that energetic, see-and-be-seen vibe is probably exactly what you’re looking for.
THE FOOD: Though the menu is satisfying, there’s little sense that chefs Dave Young (Alberto’s) and Blaise Labik (Spence Café) are striving for something unique—something their past gigs have proven they’re capable of.
I had the seared ahi appetizer—a nice portion and a fairly good cut prepared to an enticing magenta shade. The portions of seaweed slaw and sweet-and-sour sauce were in perfect proportion to the tuna and had a nice little kick. We also found culinary joy in a heaping bowl of Mussels Mexicana, which were plumper than I’ve had in a while and embellished with a zesty combination of smoky chorizo, tomato, garlic, lime, cilantro, jalapeño, tequila and Corona beer.
I followed up the tuna with a plate of tender sliced short ribs. There was no real smoky flavor profile, but the meat was well cooked with salt and pepper (often all that a quality cut of meat needs), and not overly sauced.
The seafood risotto with lobster, peas, fresh herbs, crispy prosciutto and seared scallops promised a lot but fell short on the amount of seafood. For the $20 price tag, I’d skip the lobster and beef up the portion of scallops. The risotto was a hit, though—creamy, cheesy and al dente without being starchy or undercooked.
