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You Are Where You Eat

We may never know which came first: the chicken or the egg. But one thing is certain: "Buy local" is here to stay.

(page 7 of 9)

Sue Miller
Sue and Ken Miller have two sons—but their extended family of Holsteins and Jersey cows puts their homestead population at around 162. That's a lot of mouths to feed at a time when farmers are struggling to turn profits.

But as a member of the Land of Lakes Cooperative, the Millers have a market for their milk. "That's the upside," says Sue Miller.

The downside is that, on the "fluid" market, there's no control over price. Right now, they're getting about $1.64 on a $4 gallon. "Which is why we started making cheese, and why we try to do as much as we can on our own," Miller says.

This translates to milking around 77 Holstein cows twice a day, a six-hour process even with automated milking machines; managing the cows; making, marketing and selling the cheese; and growing the feed.

There are lots of good enzymes and bacteria that add to milk's flavor profile. Pasteurizing prior to making a cheese diminishes the good and the bad, limiting the depth of flavor. Natural pasteurization takes at least 60 days; for raw milk cheeses to be legally salable, they must meet specific age requirements. For Birchrun Blue, it's 80 days; seven months for Highland Alpine; and 65 days for Fat Cat. (Find out more about these varieties on the Birchrun Hills website.) The cows' diet, combined with the inherent gastronomic qualities of raw milk and aging, add up to the Millers' distinctly flavored cheeses.

Raising all-natural veal—something the Millers' eldest son ventured into as a way of earning money for college—is turning into a profitable side venture, and making chefs like Alba's Sean Weinberg very happy.

"Farming is definitely a lifestyle, and it's hard work,"  says Miller. "But all the hardest things are forgotten when you see a newborn calf, or an incredible sunset, or taste the transformation from seed to milk. It brings so much to your life. You forget the heat, the dirt, the long hours, and even the low price."

Birchrun Hills Farm, 2573 Horseshoe Trail, Chester Springs; (610) 827-1603, birchrunhillsfarm.com.

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