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FeedBruce Almighty
Cooper’s Brick Oven Wine Bar does justice to its creator.
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THE SCENE: Back in February, Manayunk was buzzing with the news that Jake’s chef/owner Bruce Cooper was shaking up his nearly 21-year-old institution by taking over the adjoining space formerly occupied by Chico’s. Out went the clothes and in came an arched doorway connecting Jake’s to its new roommate, Cooper’s Brick Oven Wine Bar.
True to its name, it features a woodstone-fired brick oven, spacious bar, blood-red leather banquettes, a smattering of high-tops, and a bank of windows that open onto the sidewalk. The new space is airy but not really cavernous, and it can be delightfully sunny during the day when Mother Nature complies. The sleek, minimalist interior juxtaposes hard-edged brick, wood and metal design elements with warm lighting, soothing Tuscan-hued ochre walls, a mocha ceiling, and booth seating accented by elongated, khaki-colored drum lights crafted with textured fabric.
The room’s focal point is an abstract mural created by area artist Chris Lynn, illuminated by black track lighting. Symmetrical displays of wine bottles and glassware line the shelves behind the cement-topped bar, and schoolhouse pendants provide just enough light for patrons to see and be seen. On a sunny day in winter, there’s no better spot to be than next to the open glass front that extends onto Main Street.
Cooper’s affable demeanor shows itself almost immediately, thanks to an unpretentious staff that starts with the hostess and kicks into high gear with the bartenders. If you’re dining at the bar, be sure to consult the staff about libations. They have good instincts when it comes to making recommendations, and they’re generous when it comes to tastings.
THE FOOD: For the most part, the fare at Cooper’s is simple, focusing more on the interplay between attention-grabbing ingredients than artistic amalgamations. Creative, sure. But hardly over the top. The menu features seasonal brick-oven pizzas, artisan cheese, snacks, sandwiches, salads and small plates, along with about 30 wines by the glass and at least 20 craft brews. Expect your meal to play out a little unconventionally as dishes arrive when they’re finished in the kitchen. It might be best to pace your ordering to avoid this.
While even the pizzas and chicken wings are geared toward a more refined palate, less adventurous eaters will find comfort in the sandwiches—shrimp salad, crab cake, chicken Caesar—and starter fare like calamari or mussels. Earthy, nutty and loaded with cheese, the pizzas have a thin, crispy, near-cracker-like crust. The short ribs with Parmesan and horseradish cream “za” proved tantalizing and addicting, its sweet and savory notes swaddled in velvety cheese.
We didn’t sample the ham-and-egg version with spinach and bourbon maple syrup, but apparently it’s causing a sensation among pizza aficionados. Ditto the mission fig pie, dolled up with piquant Gorgonzola and port.
Elsewhere on the menu, the roasted beets come in a square-shaped bowl studded with Shellbark Hollow goat cheese crumbles that are, alas, too small for the large red chunks, which could’ve used a bit more cooking time. The crunchy, sweet almond-thyme praline topping added a nice hint of fall, but I would’ve been just as happy with a drizzle of high-end balsamic vinegar.
Stracciatella is a primary ingredient in Cooper’s Caprese salad. Sure, it sounds weird, but it’s just the curds left over from the mozzarella-making process. The dish is served warm with grape tomatoes (roasted in the oven just long enough to deliver a sweet pop when bitten into) perched casually atop a bed of fresh mozzarella and basil.
