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FeedLook Who’s Back in Town
With Gemelli, chef Clark Gilbert returns to his roots.
Photos by Steve Legato Published January 22, 2010 at 01:05 PM
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THE SCENE: Tucked away in one of Narberth’s modest row-home blocks, Gemelli resides in the house once occupied by Carmine’s and, most recently, Margot. This neighborhood bistro is less flamboyant than its predecessors, with warm colors on the walls, tailored window treatments, modest artwork, marble and wrought iron tables, a small, open kitchen, and a dark-wood interior.
The overall feel is more like dining at a friend’s home than at an upscale, suburban BYO. All the better to throw the spotlight on owner Clark Gilbert’s creative, rustic fare. And at Gemelli, there’s a real excitement that comes with watching this chef and his team.
THE FOOD: Gilbert earned his well-heeled rep at the Saloon and La Terrasse in Philly, Taquet in Wayne and, most recently, Mio Pomodoro in Jenkintown. Now that he’s back in his hometown, he’s setting aside his more sophisticated culinary past—and the ego that goes with—in an effort to offer customers an affordable, less-is-more menu. Instead of heaping ingredient upon ingredient, he opts for a minimalist approach with classic flavor combinations.
The menu isn’t overly ambitious, featuring homey renditions of the chef’s tried-and-true, Italian- and French-inspired repertoire. Gilbert is deft at balancing the business and the creative sides of running a restaurant. He gets deliveries from Severino Pasta in New Jersey, and desserts come from Le Petit Mitron in Narberth. He’s got the skills to make both—and occasionally he does—but Gilbert also knows that, to keep price points in line with what you’d expect from a neighborhood haunt, he has to be practical. 
I’d experienced Gilbert’s tuna tartare when he was at Taquet, so I figured Gemelli’s updated Vitello Tonnato version would be a good place to start. Plus, we had a nice rosata flowing. Its sushi-grade tuna was precisely cut into melt-in-your-mouth chunks, layered atop saltier, equally tender braised veal cheeks. An interesting match, and neither’s delicate flavor was overwhelmed. A sizable mound of cubed roasted beets accented with a balsamic reduction, a wedge of Gorgonzola and marcona almonds added a sweet note as an accompanying appetizer.
Among the entrées we tried was a memorable squid ink cannelloni stuffed with shrimp and crab, and bound with a mousse-like shrimp farce. The seafood chunks delivered a satisfying snap, and the side of zucchini noodles was positively addicting—lightly seasoned with shallots, basil and parsley, and steamed in a tomato-fennel-chicken stock and butter broth.
