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FeedLabor of Love
Dinner and a movie in Bala Cynwyd—Avril style.
Photos by Steve Legato Published December 14, 2009 at 02:14 PM
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THE SCENE: Even if it had nothing but tables, chairs and an espresso machine, Avril would lure customers with its luminous environs and close proximity to the Bala Theatre. As it turns out, there’s more than looks and convenience to recommend this 48-seat French-Italian bistro.
Warm and inviting, with a touch of primness, Avril’s tan and mocha hues, vibrant oil paintings, black leather banquettes and white tablecloths make for a lovely and romantic mealtime rendezvous, whether it’s dinner or Sunday brunch. The dining area’s classical soundtrack adds to the sophisticated ambiance. For maximum privacy, request a corner table closer to the kitchen.
THE FOOD: Avril’s seasonally inspired, rotating menu features Northern Italian and Southern French dishes with a hint of German influence. Eclectic and somewhat frilly initial selections included a wild mushroom barquette (pastry canoe) with sea scallops and endive tarte tatins; crab-stuffed crêpes with artichoke and asparagus gratin; duck breast with peaches; lavender-scented grilled shrimp, scallops and calamari; and a decadent, espresso-infused mousse with seared foie gras on brioche.
Now that the cold weather has hit, comfort fare is the rule at Avril. Think hearty soups, home-style braised brisket, coq au vin and pasta Bolognese, plus well-conceived vegetarian offerings—all of which convincingly demonstrate chef/owner Christian Gatti’s penchant for cooking with the season and using time-tested techniques.
Gatti favors silky, buttery sauces, creamy cheeses, risotto and polenta, and provincial ingredients like rabbit, quail and trout. But his true specialty is homemade pastries, breads, pastas and desserts. Tarts, kugelhopf (part bread, part cake), puff pastry, focaccia, crêpes, profiteroles, brioche and flan all find their way onto Avril’s menu. 
For starters one night, we tried the smoked trout served with crème fraîche, apple-butter vinaigrette, and an apple poached in white wine and spiced cider; a hearty gratin of roasted beets, parsnips and turnips in cream with blue cheese crumble, pickled red onion and a grilled boudin blanc (pork) sausage; and an artichoke, spinach and goat cheese tart with robustly flavored artichoke chunks and a flaky, buttery crust.
Our entrées were even more decadent. The grilled lamb chops were served alongside a curry-scented carrot custard. Another dish had slices of juicy, crimson-colored duck fanned atop a smoky French lentil demi-glace, separated by sweet, soft sections of roasted pear.
The wild mushroom and pumpkin ravioli featured handmade ribbons of delicate pasta over layers of sautéed spinach, mushrooms and cheese. The surprisingly light forkfuls of the accompanying pumpkin flan went down smoothly, and the hidden garlic cloves and pumpkin seeds added pizzazz to this simple, rustic dish.
