Asian Cool

MangoMoon dresses up Thai for a night on the town.

By Dawn E. Warden
Photos by Steve Legato Published June 23, 2009 at 01:49 PM

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THE SCENE: Located along the not-so-beaten path leading out of Manayunk, MangoMoon spruces up a Main Street block known more for home décor than hot dining. Through its bilevel glass façade, passersby can catch tantalizing glimpses of Asian tapas, swanky elixirs, and plenty of activity in the open kitchen.

Owned by the same team behind the nearby Chabaa Thai Bistro, MangoMoon is part Zen destination, part lively nightspot (minus the 20-something crowd), depending on the day of the week. Its urban-chic interior—designed by Center City’s Missy Stang—reflects owner Nongyao “Moon” Krapugthong’s passion for tranquility and the symbiotic relationship between life’s sensual elements, whether it’s nature, food or people.

MangoMoon’s first floor is a prime spot for people watching; the second offers a little more privacy. Both have contemporary “down” lighting and wooden bistro tables. The light, earthtone walls are offset by dark furnishings, a granite bar and amber glass tiles. Striking artwork includes “Monk on Canvases,” a series of photos taken at a market in Bangkok, and 18,600 copper nails that spell the words to one of Krapugthong’s favorite Thai lullabies.

In Thai culture, views are arranged so the landscape is always visible. At MangoMoon, Krapugthong hopes to give diners the sensation of being outside, with the moon above showering them with its blessings. Hence the large, copper lunar sphere created by East Falls artist Anthony Tyler.

If you’re dining at MangoMoon on a night when it’s less busy, try the bar—either alongside the window or at the 14-person communal table. That way, you can get better acquainted with all the bartender’s latest potions.

THE FOOD: MangoMoon’s menu strives to put a sophisticated spin on traditional Northern Thai cuisine, borrowing from India, Vietnam, Laos, Indonesia and China. The flavors should be familiar to any dabbler in Asian fare. The limited selection is divided into small and medium dishes, with the idea that guests will order several items and indulge family-style.

Guests get a complimentary sake-size cup of hot or cold tea (depending on the weather), and at the bar, each day brings a new libation. At MangoMoon, its cocktails are an integral part of the dining experience, as they build on the various tastes coming out of the kitchen.

With her latest project, Krapugthong wanted to experiment with a wide variety of ingredients and “have fun without any limits.” Her vehicle, tapas, isn’t a foreign concept in Thailand. In fact, the Thai word kubklam roughly translates to “snacks.” Eat enough of those, and you have a meal.

And yet, among those diners who’ve followed Krapugthong from Chabaa to MangoMoon, there’s been some reluctance to buy into the tapas concept. That unwillingness to share perplexes Moon, who’s witnessed the small-plate craze along with the rest of us.

As it turns out, smaller plates are the kitchen’s strong suit, dazzling more readily than the rest of the menu. The trio of plump blue point oysters had a clean flavor and not a hint of brininess. The light, mildly spicy chili-lime sauce—enhanced with diced garlic and Vietnamese mint— was rounder and smoother in flavor than a traditional mignonette. The roasted chili and plum sugar sauce delivered a nice kick to the tender slices of chargrilled, marinated pork neck filet. Wrapping the pork in the accompanying lettuce is a great excuse to play with your food.

Three mighty, impressively charred (but still pink inside) scallops made a lasting impression, with heat courtesy of a vivacious sweet-and-sour chili and fish sauce. The only complaint: their placement atop a lackluster, untidy heap of mixed greens and thin slivers of white onion—a presentation that seemed to undercut the kitchen’s artsy effort.