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FeedWaiting to Blossom
With Floret, Scott Morrison nurtures his culinary comeback.
Photos by Steve Legato Published May 19, 2010 at 01:17 PM
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Five years ago, when Scott Morrison and Michael Wei opened Nectar in Berwyn, discerning Main Line diners warmly embraced its enormous Buddha and Asian fusion fare—and they haven’t let go since. Buoyed by that success, Morrison and Nectar chef Patrick Feury dove into another local project: the much-hyped Maia in Villanova. But when it quickly closed in 2009 after a slew of negative press, Morrison seemed to have dropped off the culinary map.
Then, last October, the buzz hit about Floret, Morrison’s new project with Dan Kremin (Barclay Prime, Buddakan). The initial concept was supposed to be “bistro meets lounge,” with innovative takes on comfort fare, trendy cocktails and “value-priced” boutique wines. Like its predecessor, Pond, a portion of the facility would be dedicated to private parties.
As Floret unfolded, there was positive commentary but also skepticism. I, for one, was excited to hear that Morrison was back. But when I first pulled up a chair at Floret, I discovered that the menu and ambiance were somewhat different than advertised. The lounge didn’t feel especially loungey, and the large dining room felt as if it was underutilized.
Service was attentive, friendly and polished—exactly what I’d expect from Morrison. Yet, a lunchtime appetizer of crispy fried calamari with hot peppers and leeks arrived soggy. On second try, it came out of the kitchen crispier, but the accompanying aioli lacked zing and the jalapeños were canned. Far better were the roasted artichoke hearts with gremolata and sharp Provolone—particularly the mild red pepper sauce they were served on.
My burger—topped with Gruyère, wine-braised mushrooms, onions and a mustard-infused sauce—tasted more like steak than ground beef. The accompanying frites were tastily seasoned with large crystals of salt and a hint of truffle oil. The pasta special’s light tomato broth benefited from the smoky-savory sausage, mussels, broccoli rabe, Parmesan, olive oil, basil and garlic—even if it was overpowered by the fresh lemon juice. 
Topping off our lunch, a colorful, enormous dessert sampler featured a light and creamy milk chocolate pot de crème; airy sugar-cinnamon-coated mini-doughnuts served with crème anglaise and berry and chocolate sauces; espresso-cream-filled profiteroles with chocolate sauce; and an expertly caramelized crème brûlée.
For dinner, we ordered a trio of salads. Best was the healthy-sized tousle of baby arugula, thinly shaved fennel and blood oranges dressed in a lip-smacking pomegranate vinaigrette. The tangy-sweet beet carpaccio and spinach came mixed in a champagne vinaigrette, with honeyed goat cheese and a crunchy hazelnut truffle. Coming in a distant third: a mound of mixed greens topped with a single over-cooked lobster claw.
Our protein-heavy entrées included beef short ribs with crispy polenta. The meat fell off the bone, but it was drenched in a thick mahogany sauce that lacked any distinct flavor. Expertly prepared, the grilled 14-ounce veal porterhouse special was lightly charred, with a sweet tomato glaze and natural jus.
