Farmhouse Bistro Review: People's Light & Theatre's Culinary Performance
The Malvern farm-to-table restaurant has yet to strike a balance between concept and execution, but shows potential in a beautiful setting.
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Among the other entrées, a rather ordinary salmon with steamed asparagus, filet with potato gratin, and mushroom penne in a creamy sauce are nothing to get excited about. Apparently, there seems to be some confusion in the kitchen over what
constitutes true bistro fare, and how deliciously simple it can be if executed well.
For dessert, the Farmhouse falls back on favorites like cheesecake and chocolate mousse. Typically sweet and buttery, the Honeycrisp apple tart tatin tasted more like a dry slice of pie, with no gooey caramelization to speak of. And our warm brownie sundae’s massive square of near-flavorless cake was served with vanilla ice cream and candied cashews. Not the best way to end a meal.
THE SKINNY: Playing mostly to the theater crowd, the Farmhouse Bistro can be eerily vacant during the week or after the pre-show rush. It is a beautiful setting for a wedding or private party, and light bites and drinks are a real pleasure when enjoyed on the garden terrace. Given that the space has such potential, here’s hoping the kitchen works out its glitches.
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