Ryan Christopher's Review: Phyllis and Mike Klaumenzer's Narberth BYO Has Some of Montco's Best Comfort Food

Comfort food is de rigueur at Ryan Christopher’s restaurant in Narberth.

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With a dinner menu this lengthy, you’d have to spend a lot of time at Ryan Christopher’s to see if the chef can actually pull off every one of its 20-some entrées, plus sandwiches, salads, soups and appetizers. But judging by the crowd on a recent Thursday night and its booked-solid weekends, the neighborhood seems to be happy.

The menu changes frequently, and local ingredients are used whenever possible. Prices are reasonable, with appetizers hovering in the $8 range and entrées topping out at $20.99. A steady group of regulars return again and again for the $9 Black Angus burger (on a pillowy LeBus roll) and the jumbo lump crab cakes.

Michael favors Italian offerings like shrimp pomodoro, veal Florentine, chicken and shrimp piccata over capellini, and chicken or eggplant parmigiana. Conventional, homey comfort fare includes steaks, pork chops and meatloaf, along with sandwiches and hearty salads.

Intrigued by the Barkley factor, the cheesesteak egg rolls were a no-brainer to start our meal. We also chose the toasted goat cheese and roasted beet salad to balance out the heaviness of the chipped steak, fried onions and Jack cheese. The rolls were tasty and not too greasy. The salad was delicious, its field-greens mix the perfect foundation for goat-cheese rounds (dipped in panko and lightly pan-seared), walnuts and locally grown roasted red beets—all covered in balsamic vinaigrette. Also tempting was the eggplant Napoleon, layered with grilled tomatoes, smoked mozzarella and pesto, and topped with roasted peppers and a balsamic glaze.

For one entrée, we opted for another customer favorite: the jumbo lump crab cakes—and we’re glad we did. Plump, packed with luscious white meat, and lightly seared in a panko coating, they were so good, in fact, that the accompanying cole slaw and french fries were basically an afterthought.

Served with sweet-potato hash and crisp green beans, the cranberry-encrusted salmon was made for one colorful—and filling—plate of food. The fish was cooked perfectly, the cranberry relish adding a welcome tart-sweet zing. A hint of wasabi (used in the mashed potatoes from another salmon entrée) put a slight damper on the dish, but I’m guessing it was unintentional.

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