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FeedSmall Plates, Big Bites
Blush’s Nick Farina woos Main Liners with tapas and tequila.
Photos by Steve Legato Published November 2, 2009 at 09:33 AM
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THE SCENE: Aesthetically, the transformation of N’awlins-inspired Carmine’s into Euro-chic Verdad is fairly subtle. Vibrant shades of maize and burnt sienna still set the rear dining room aglow, and the addition of soft, flowing sheers soften the wrought iron “entrance” and enhance the transition to a quieter space.
In the bar area, new artwork has been added to the walls, and the ceiling is coppered. The exposed brick wall is a holdover from Carmine’s, as is the roomy bar. But now, a deep-black wall frames the cushy booths.
THE FOOD: Chef/partner Nick Farina’s passion for tapas-style dining began to show at Blush, where his small-plate specials allowed him to experiment more freely in the kitchen while broadening customers’ palates. Blush’s more traditional format, however, wasn’t so easy to dismantle.
At Verdad, Farina has what he’s always wanted—a broad menu influenced by Spanish, Cuban, Brazilian and Mexican cuisines, laid out in enticing groupings, most offering six dishes priced within a few dollars of one another. The house-made chips with guacamole and habanero salsa, the charcuterie plate, and the artisinal cheese board are all great starting points for larger parties. Items like the oysters and the figs might be better enjoyed by one.
Symmetrically plated, the Brie-topped figs satisfied with their soft centers. But the cheese wasn’t quite ripe and failed to envelope the fruit with the anticipated creaminess. Still, the accompanying bed of microgreens with balsamic reduction was savory enough.
I thoroughly enjoyed the generous bowl of Prince Edward Island mussels with (barely perceptible) tequila, smoky chorizo, al dente black beans, chopped tomatoes, and diced green pepper and onion. The supple mussels were swimming in a robust, velvety broth. The only thing missing was an aioli-slathered crostini.
A unanimous favorite was the lamb—two glistening chops with crimson centers, fanned out over a tidy pile of perfectly seasoned patatas bravas (crisp potato cubes) and adorned with an over-easy fried egg. And the fish tacos—filled with tilapia, slaw, sweet soy, chili-infused soy and guacamole—had a nice snap to them, but they left me craving more. Too modest for $9—and too tidy.
I was confused by the Kobe tacos—a novel idea underwhelmingly presented in pre-fab mini taco bowls, the beef overcooked and smothered in congealed cheese. Frankly, this dish would’ve been just as good with top-quality ground beef. The salty meat contrasted nicely with the chopped dates, spicy jalapeños, tart lime and cool, creamy guacamole.
We rounded out our meal with the rich espresso molten chocolate cake, made with espresso beans, hazelnut helado and crème anglaise. Dense, moist bites delivered a mocha wallop, and the warm, gooey chocolate center and crunchy hazelnuts sent the whole thing over the top.
