Downingtown Restaurant Review: Stella Rossa's Italian Flair
Prolific local restaurateur Dave Magrogan nails it with Stella Rossa.
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Location • 20 E. Lancaster Ave., Downingtown
Contact • (610) 269-6000, stellarossaristorante.com
Cuisine • Italian
Cost • Appetizers $5-$15, entrées $12-$30.
Attire • Smart casual.
Atmosphere • Comfortable, energized, stylish.
Hours • 11:30 a.m.-10 p.m. Sunday-Thursday, 11:30 a.m.-11 p.m. Friday-Saturday.
Extras • Seasonal outdoor dining, large party seating for up to 18, private room for special events, takeout, kids’ menu.
Dave Magrogan is at it again. The seemingly unstoppable 40-year-old restaurateur responsible for 16 eateries—soon to be 17, come late fall—has now added a provocative Italian concept to his collection. Stella Rossa occupies a refurbished, 200-year-old Downingtown mill that used to house Firecreek Restaurant.
Magrogan wanted to stay local for this new venture, close enough to Doc Magrogan’s Oyster House and Kildare’s Irish Pub, both in West Chester. Also not far, in Glen Mills, is Harvest Seasonal Grill, the first in his series of health-conscious farm-to-table spots, which has since expanded to both Philadelphia and North Wales.
Magrogan’s newest spot is a structural behemoth along the east branch of the Brandywine River. Its vast rustic-meets-Vegas dining room and ample al fresco seating cover an impressive 7,000 square feet. Cosmetic updates like white stone walls, barn-wood divisions and red hardwood floors add a contemporary touch.
An open kitchen outlined in white tiles whets the appetite with its signature Neapolitan pizzas blazing away inside. The white, marble-topped bar encourages small-party dining, while burgundy leather booths and thick wood high-tops beckon large groups—especially the Frank Sinatra table, with its fun and flashy “Stella Rossa” marquee.
Magrogan had been pursuing the mill building for three years, but he still needed a theme and the right person to execute it. Then he met Anthony DiPascale (Brasserie Perrier, McCormick & Schmidt’s). Just three months into DiPascale’s stint as executive chef at Harvest Seasonal Grill in University City, Magrogan floated the idea to him. Born into an Italian family with its own butcher shop on 9th Street in South Philadelphia, DiPascale jumped at the chance. The Italian menu he conceived stresses seasonality and is even somewhat health-conscious. “I’ve made better choices with Stella Rossa because of my time spent at Harvest,” he admits. “Our goal is for guests to enjoy an entrée and, on their way to it, split a pizza, cheeses and olives.”
True to DiPascale’s vision, Stella Rossa specializes in shareable, unpretentious Italian fare that doesn’t fixate on any particular region. “It’s Italian as Americans have interpreted it,” says Magrogan. “[We’re] having fun with it, making it sexy.”
We, too, were tempted to start throwing around the word “sexy” as we devoured our sweet-and-salty assortment of Cerignola, Gaeta and Picholine olives sourced from Di Bruno Bros. As we ate, we watched a fire-engine-red Berkel slicer shaving off slices of Di Parma, Bresola and Coppa for cured meat plates. It was dinner as entertainment, with the $8,000 machine as the headliner.
The rest of our meal continued to reflect the surroundings—rustic and comfortable, with touches of sultry innovation. The house bruschetta benefited from heartier-than-normal chunks of fresh bread, generous smears of whipped ricotta, oven-roasted tomatoes and thinly sliced prosciutto—sweet and savory done remarkably well.